We're currently a few kilometres south of the pre-Alps, the foothills that rapidly fold and rise in Lombardy's north into the huge mountains that dominate the horizon from wherever you are in this part of Italy.
And yesterday, we saw our house, and what once was a construction site, now looks like the beginnings of a really lovely home. So there's no floors, no toilets, no heating (it's 4 ºC, who needs heat?) and no kitchen, but the windows, doors and shutters are in, and it all looks beautiful.
I was explaining the concept of 'paying through your nose' -- we failed to establish an Italian equivalent -- to my would-be mother in law whilst we scrutinised the workmanship; the solid wood that makes up the entire roof, the local white slate that covers the Stairs, the balconies and the terrace, the window frames and fantastic shutter mechanisms, they're all on a different level to the ones we tend to see in new British homes. And they cost less. And they're installed with an engineer's precision. This is all most thrilling to one so anal.
And now we're choosing paints - the man and I seem to have fairly similar views, and while we're not going overboard, there'll be a little adventure there to see that things aren't too staid.
It all makes the planning and stress seem that much more worthwhile; just the encouragement that we needed.
Time to get up...
If I'm very careful, I may succeed in bringing down my rate of posting to one entry per year.
I may be the first man to have wandered into the first class lounge at Manila International covered ankle to thigh in mud, but they couldn't rightly stop me; I have a pass (it's genetic, I can't actually afford to fly first-class) and a strong urge to check email, and there be computers here!
The last few weeks have been even busier than before, including lots of archipelago hopping on overnight boats (one came with a typhoon, which was... novel), travelling on top of cargo on trucks and, of course, climbing mountains -- just as well since I'm here to do just that.
Amongst all that, our happy trio has discovered three new species of plant, and rediscovered one not seen since 1908. That discovery involved imprisonment for three days, but since this was voluntary and a prerequisite to finding the plant in question, it was borne with much joy. That's what happens when a plant grows in the grounds (by "grounds", we're talking many thousands of hectares and about five mountains) of a prison colony for murderers and violent criminals -- bureaucracy and fear of the inmates keeps the sensible botanists out. The mad ones turn up eventually and have a ball.
Did you know that there's a dish eaten all over the country that consists of partially developed duck embryos? Yup, yup, incubate that fertilised duck egg till it has a heart beat, bones and small feathers, then nuke it. The unsuspecting tourist peels the egg to find a baby, egg-shaped bird, wrinkles his nose a little, dips it in salt, and presto, scrummilicious! It's even tastier than hu-hu grubs and fried maggots. I really will eat anything. It's called balut - see it for yourself.
Inspired by my own words, I'm off for a fluffy little snack.
Arrived by ferry at Calapan, the capital city of Mindoro province, after a very eventful 14 hour bus passage down from Mountain and Ifugao Provinces.
In the last 20 hours, I've been caught up in a massive landslide - the mountain gave way on the road ahead of us and literally buried the route under 10 metres of heavy soil and splintered tree ferns; we negotiated a passenger and luggage exchange with a vehicle on the other side of the slip, unloaded and hiked over the landfall in the rain (it felt so epic!) - and then, as we continued down to Batangas for our ferry, a woman on the bus went into short-lived labour.
Our immediate diversion to hospital was pretty pointless, as the baby popped out in one bloody mess in all of five minutes (lucky woman), covering the aisle in blood. Apart from the roaring engine and constant emergency honking by the driver, there was total silence till the baby cried, then much relief all round as mother and baby were carried off the bus in a stretcher, health intact.
And now, off to climb a mountain that is supposed to be arduous to even Everest hikers because of the mad up and down terrain (fortunately, not so cold). I hope it's exaggerated, though there was a death up there not so long ago, which just goes to show that you have to be diligent at all times.
Before doing this, we visit the town mayor to get his blessings (permission) for the ascent.
There's a certain hint of adventure here; happy homo I are.
Anon!
And who knew that even tiny villages up in the mountains would have internet?
This is just a brief one to say hello from the Philippines! A 10 hour bus ride brought me here, and another one lies ahead at the end of the day. Next stop, Mindoro!
Incidentally, not a durian in sight.
"Your cum tastes like durian."
Relationships have failed over less, but a relationship that can't withstand attacks of attrition by a tropical fruit probably isn't worth holding on to.
We remain stalwart in our struggle against fruity pericarps and odious pulps. Enough said.
A big and cheery hello from Kuching International airport, where the internet comes free and no-one seems keen to surf. That said, what with all the food around, who'd bother, except I've just eaten so my mind is occupied by thoughts that normally come second to my stomach.
Davide tells me from an adjacent terminal that London is cold and rainy (16 C). It's rainy here too, albeit 34 C and likely to be sunny again in the next half hour. Har har har. Not really, there are moments when I miss the cool, dry air of the UK - the humidity does get to you after a while.
We're stuck here for an hour or two whilst we wait for our flight to the capital across the water. It will be nice to get to KL and have a hot shower and get some real laundry done. River water and hand soap just doesn't get blood, stench and grime out like dedicated washing machines do.
Uh-oh, little kiddie wants the computer. Who am I to deny?
Adios!
I've never walked so far with so much weight on my back; strong drumsticks aside, in the last ten days, I've sustained multiple wounds (rattan, fire ants, leeches, nothing like my previous history of separating joints at inopportune moments), regained my six pack (bonus! ...but I plan to remove it in the next two weeks), showered in waterfalls, slept in tents, crapped in the woods (what, you want romance?), climbed two mountains, seen some incredible plants and bugs, taken lots of bio-geek photographs and generally enjoyed spending an extended period of time doing just what it is that I don't normally get to do back in the UK.
Being here has been a stark reminder of all that I've left behind in moving to Europe, and I feel a real ache in my side when I think about where I'm allowing life to take me (id est, not here). Anyway, no crises unfolding, just an observation. The people out here mightn't be quite so glam, or sophisticated, as those back home, but they seem to be a damn sight happier, despite having to live under often difficult circumstances with little support. Of course, Kuala Lumpur is a different kettle of fish entirely, but I'm not over there just yet - it'll be a real trip back to yesteryear when I am.
Anyway, back to the wilds tomorrow, so just taking this opportunity to do some "ekspress" laundry and netting.
Jumpa lagi!
A brief one, since computering isn't high on my list of priorities!
Just back to the mainland of Borneo from our trip to Lankayan; it was plain incredible, unforgettable bliss. Having lived in Malaysia for over a decade and visited some pretty fantastic places, this island, among beachy type destinations, is one of the most ridiculously picturesque and tranquil spots I've ever encountered.
The SCUBA diving was fantastic, and even then, the house reef was so full of life that snorkeling was enough to get a glimpse of turtles, black tip sharks, lion fish, anemones, mandarins, gobies, shoals of scad, a great barracuda (massive beastie) and puffers. I could verily adapt to life on an island.
Now, all this relaxing goodness is to be offset by almost ten days in pouring rain atop the montane forests of the mainland. Plants and bugs time.
Ciao ciao!
In just a few days, sleeping will be done on this here rock, diving by day, and hopefully spotting turtle vulva by night. Then comes some serious botanising, trekking jungle and mountain ridge for the greater part of three months with festering clothing and missing tent-pegs for company.
My former stomping grounds have more internet cafés than Seattle does Starbucks outlets, so one or two updates could be forthcoming from any of the unmarked (but frequent) stops on the itinerary below.
And that's that. Which leaves me to ask that you people take care of yourselves; I can't look after your interests from 7200 miles away.
Bye bye!
